Forum:
Q & A
Thread:
D70+10.5Nikkor +303SPH
|
D70+10.5Nikkor +303SPH
Posted: 2 Jun 2006 at 15:15 GMT
|
go to thread
|
Hi guys,
Embarassing enough I moved the settings and now have come back into the parallax issues. I could manually do the tests over to pinpoint the distance and settings of the different "plates" but I was wondering if anyone had those settings on hand and could post them. It'll just save me some time.
Regards,
Joey
|
|
alert moderator
|
|
Forum:
Q & A
Thread:
Srinking image sizes
|
Srinking image sizes
Posted: 26 Apr 2006 at 19:42 GMT
|
go to thread
|
Hi everyone,
I am just about to post a few panos I've done in a regional park near my house and have one little concern.
I shoot with a D70 and a 10.5mm lens in RAW and large JPEG format. The problem is, since I use Easypano, I have to maintain a certain dimension if I wantto keep quality. Using web-broadband seems really good, but when you go to web-dialup, the quality turns to garbage. That being said, I left with panos that are really clear and nice, but also of very large sizes which slows down the downloading process. What methods do you guys use to shrink the size but maintain the quality of the panos?
Some of you are going to say:photoshop ---> image size, etc. and I am awar of that, but I've noticed some fullscreen panos that download like they were only a feww 100Ks. How is this result best achieved?
Any info would be greatly appreciated since I'm excited on showing you what someone that didn't know diddly about photography and photoshop was able to learn in "no time" thanks to all your help.
Regards,
Joey
|
|
alert moderator
|
|
Forum:
Q & A
Thread:
D70 Exposure problem
|
Re: D70 Exposure problem
Posted: 13 Apr 2006 at 17:56 GMT
|
go to thread
|
Hi Eagle,
Thanks again. When you say you adjust the exposure manually, is that per shot? If so, where can I learn how to do this?
Regards,
Joey
|
|
alert moderator
|
|
Forum:
Q & A
Thread:
D70 Exposure problem
|
Re: D70 Exposure problem
Posted: 13 Apr 2006 at 17:23 GMT
|
go to thread
|
Hi guys,
Thanks for the reply. Just to correct, you measure a white/gray card in every picture or just the first one? Also, how do you give all the pictures the same exposure?
Thanks again and sorry for busting you guys up with these questions.
Regards,
Joey
|
|
alert moderator
|
|
Forum:
Q & A
Thread:
D70 Exposure problem
|
D70 Exposure problem
Posted: 13 Apr 2006 at 15:31 GMT
|
go to thread
|
Hi guys,
I'm using a D70 with a 10.5mm Nikkor lens and have started to practice my pano shooting yet have come accross an ever increasingly constant problem. The issue is seams. After stitching, I have visible seams throughout most of my stitched pictures and this is do to contrast between the pics. I know the problem, it's exposure. But I cannot for the life of me fix it. Please note, I am practicing indoors and in forests, so contrast between the picture can be quite visible.
I am still quite novice at photography but believe I must use EV-L when I shoot, is that correct? Or is the better way to use the internal light meter and correct every shot one at a time?
Does anyone have a quick trick to limit this exposure issue? Or does anyone have a method that I should be using? I use Photoshop CS but to manually go and play around with every picture is quite time consuming and I'd like to limit the post-picture production to it's minimum.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Regards,
Joey
|
|
alert moderator
|
|
Forum:
Q & A
Thread:
lighting and exposure
|
Re: lighting and exposure
Posted: 1 Dec 2005 at 16:13 GMT
|
go to thread
|
Hi Jon,
Thanks for the answer. Please bare with me as I am relatively new to photography. I preset the WB using a White Card, I thought this was good enough. My focus is on Manual, which is what I had read I needed to do. As for exposure, I'm not too sure what it is that I am doing. I know I have the option of "auto", "P", "S", "M" and "A" on the camera, I kept it at at "P" but fo no other reason except coincidence. Now, after having read up on these options, my undertanding is that since it's a still shot, the speed of the shutter doesn't matter. Hence I can eliminate "S" from my options. I am also under the understanding that "Auto" won't be good either, since it changes the setting from one shot to the next by approximating things. What do you recommend I leave the dial on?
As for the software, I have been experimenting with panoweaver trial-version but will be messing around tonight with PTGUI. Is there that much of a difference between the two application (except for price). Also, I haven't seen the "use previous conversion" option. What I normally do is import all 6 RAW pics into photoshop and "Synchronize" all of them according to one picture. Usually this helps alot. Then I decided on the picture that seems most realistic in terms of the colours and hues and I do "Match Colour" under Adjustments on them. Before importing them into Panoweaver, I do a dry-run with the Photo Merge option, just to see the variations in the tones (i.e. lighting) as to minimize the lighting/exposure difference. A few touchups later, I'm in panoweaver, stitch, see what pics are off, back to photoshop, modify the pics that are off, re-import into panoweaver, etc... As you can see, this gets tedious.
Sorry for all the qestions, but any help would be awesome.
Cheers,
Joey
|
|
alert moderator
|
|
Forum:
Q & A
Thread:
lighting and exposure
|
Re: lighting and exposure
Posted: 1 Dec 2005 at 6:05 GMT
|
go to thread
|
Sorry about this, I forgot to mention that I normally do indoor panos, if that would actually change something. Also, does the ISO really affect something in this case? I keep it at 200.
Thanks again,
Joey
|
|
alert moderator
|
|
Forum:
Q & A
Thread:
lighting and exposure
|
lighting and exposure
Posted: 1 Dec 2005 at 5:54 GMT
|
go to thread
|
Hi everyone,
Hardly an easy question to answer, sorry about this. I own a D70 and a 10.5mm lens and I've seen some AMAZING work being done with that equipment on this site. My stitching is fine (oobjects line up), no seems can be seen except for the fact that there are lighting differences between pics. Now, I use RAW and adjust via Photoshop CS2, so I can get rid of most of the lighting difference. I also use a WHITE card in my pics to adjust the WB, but things never seem the same. I also "teach" my camera using the WB card but don't know how close I should get the card to the lens. In either case, I find myself spending alot of time adjusting. Any hints or tips? I can't quite figure out how to get the same look throughout my pics and find that adjusting my exposure helps alot. WB is just for touchups really. That being said, any help from ANYONE would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks again,
Joey
|
|
alert moderator
|
|
Forum:
Q & A
Thread:
problems with lighting/contrast between pics
|
Re: problems with lighting/contrast between pics
Posted: 31 Oct 2005 at 21:21 GMT
updated: 31 Oct 2005 at 21:24 GMT
|
go to thread
|
Hey Smooth,
Thanks again for all your help. So I read my manual. A few questions here:
1 - When it concerns white balance in a room, is the white balance the same all over the room, regardless of what direction the camera is rotated in? What I can see is that by manualy getting your camera to focus and adjust the white balance on a "white card" in that room, it will calculate the temperature of the light and then adjust itself accordingly throughout the room. But let's say you are doing a room where the light source is not uniform, let's say lights or on one side of the room. When your shooting the shot towards those lights, its natural that more light will be captured by the camera since it is "aiming" at the light source. Turn 180 degrees away and the lights are in back of you. Now, do you need to recalibrate the White Balance again?
2 - What is the best way to measure the white balance. Some say put the camera in auto, semi-click down and get the readings, go back to manual and manually put in that level. Others say use your judgment, i.e. cloudy skies have a certain lighting temperature, and equivalent white balance, etc. Others again suggest the White Card/Grey Card and other simply say shoot in RAW and adjust in Photoshop afterwards. What is your suggetsion?
Sorry for the long post but this is really the last frontier I need to conquer in order to start showing some of you pros what I have been able to do and sharing panos with you all.
Thanks again,
Joey
|
|
alert moderator
|
|
Forum:
Q & A
Thread:
problems with lighting/contrast between pics
|
Re: problems with lighting/contrast between pics
Posted: 29 Oct 2005 at 19:28 GMT
|
go to thread
|
Hey Smooth, Manual mode I got and do use, but correct white setting? That's a new one for me man. Any tips? What about panoweaver as the software?
Thanks man,
Joey
|
|
alert moderator
|
|
Forum:
Q & A
Thread:
problems with lighting/contrast between pics
|
problems with lighting/contrast between pics
Posted: 29 Oct 2005 at 18:35 GMT
|
go to thread
|
Hi everyone!
I have been experimenting with panos and finally got a 303SPH. I use a D70 with a 10.5mm lens and have been doing panos here and there. I seem to be wasting ALOT of time trying to correct the "shading" difference between pictures of a pano. This leads to some unsightly seams not due to any objects that have shifted but simply due to the colour contract.
A perfect example would be an outdoor shot. The sky's blue would shift from light to dark between two side shots.
My question is simple, but the solution might be complex: Is there any way to get the D70 to automatically adjust its parameters so that these colour/contrast/lighting issues are no more?
I am fairly new to photography so if there are tutorials or guides for such things and you guys could point me to them, I would greatly appreciate it.
Hope to hear from a few of you!
Cheers,
Joey
|
|
alert moderator
|
|
Forum:
Galleries
Thread:
360 Precision - London Panos
|
Re: 360 Precision - London Panos
Posted: 22 Aug 2005 at 18:42 GMT
|
go to thread
|
Hi Andrew,
Absolutely stunning panos. I too use a 10.5mm and am just beginning to explore the pano world and was wondering hwo you got the light in each picture to match? See one of my problems is when I do outside panos, depending on where the sun is, some pictures get alot more light then other and you can tell when I stitch. Also, I use the 10.5 with my D70 and I was wondering how you get the pictures to be so "crisp". When I use a regular lens, it comes out very clear, but when I use the 10.5, the picture will appear slightly grainy and after a few tests I believe it is due to insufficient light since the same shot is very clear with alot of light. Any settings you use?
Thanks again for your help.
/Joey
|
|
alert moderator
|
|
Forum:
Q & A
Thread:
For smooth ( or anyone that can help me decide on a panohead)
|
Re: For smooth ( or anyone that can help me decide on a panohead)
Posted: 28 Jul 2005 at 14:36 GMT
|
go to thread
|
Hey there,
I too am looking for a panohead and discovered that a shop here in town carries the 303SPH and has a 10 day full refund return policy so I was thinking of picking it up and playing around with it to see if it'll do the trick. I have a D70 + 10.5mm and was going back and forth about the TCPShort, but without any way to test it, I am somewhat relunctant (read scared) to buy something and realizing only afterwards that it doesn't satisfy what I need.
Smooth, your opinion is EXTREMEMLY valuable to me and that is why I am asking you (and everyone else this). What si the major difference between the TCPShort and the 303SPH and finally, do I have to re-adjust the 303SPH when I shoot my nadir and zenith shots so that the nodal point remains costant or does the 303SPH rotate everywhere freely around the nodal point I will have set?
Thanks again for all your help,
Joey
|
|
alert moderator
|
|
Forum:
Q & A
Thread:
Am I going to get sued for using anything other than iPix?
|
Re: Am I going to get sued for using anything other than iPix?
Posted: 15 Jul 2005 at 16:01 GMT
|
go to thread
|
Hello,
This is interesting. I am thinking of purchasing panoweaver to do some commercial panos and I was planning on using the D70+Nikkor 10.5mm lens, this in fact creates "drum style" pictures. Would I be infringing on any copyrights?
Also, I don't quite understand how a company could essentially patent something like that. My understanding of patents is that you may patent "an expression of an idea, and not the idea itself". If different companies are using different algorithms to "auto-stitch", when how could one patent the entire thing?
Very curious to see how the patent was drafted.
Any input on either subject would be appreciated.
Thank you,
Joey
|
|
alert moderator
|
|
Forum:
Q & A
Thread:
What is the best panohead for Nikkon D70 with 10.5mm lens???
|
Re: What is the best panohead for Nikkon D70 with 10.5mm lens???
Posted: 4 Jul 2005 at 15:59 GMT
|
go to thread
|
Hi, thanks for the reply. Will this permit me to do 360@180 with Panoweaver? This is another issue of mine, I have panoweaver and tourweaver. If not, is there a software that you recommend where I can simply input the pictures and the stitching will do itself automatically. I do not want to have to fine tune for hours on end to get optimal results as it will be for clients.
Thanks again,
Joey
|
|
alert moderator
|
|
Prev
