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Q & A

Thread:
Retouching a panorama. Kind of wishlist
Re: Retouching a panorama. Kind of wishlist
Posted: 26 Dec 2008 at 14:31 GMT
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Hi Dorin,
My biggest problem is getting rid of tripod shadows, or getting rid of my own shadow in case of handheld shooting. A solution for this would be highly appreciated.
Happy new year!
Henk
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Forum:
Galleries

Thread:
Do you have a good head for hights
Re: Do you have a good head for hights
Posted: 5 May 2008 at 9:02 GMT
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Wow!!
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Forum:
Galleries

Thread:
HDR panoramas of my friend's house
Re: HDR panoramas of my friend's house
Posted: 22 Oct 2007 at 14:12 GMT
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Hi John, hi Jeremy,

I'm sure you must have tried it, but I can't remember having seen it before in the forum. You can very easily merge the two shots using Smartblend by masking out the unwanted areas in both shots like this:


Simply let Smartblend have a go at the two pictures and the result is good with a very good blend in the window borders without the need for a very steady hand in photoshop:


Henk
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Forum:
Galleries

Thread:
Dallas Arboretum
Re: Dallas Arboretum
Posted: 28 Sep 2007 at 20:45 GMT
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Hi Gabriel,

I'm using an E-300 in combination with a Peleng 8mm lens. I'm not sure what you mean by "quality". Your pano looks fine, but may need some sharpening.

Henk
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Forum:
Q & A

Thread:
Where to upload my QTVR ?
Re: Where to upload my QTVR ?
Posted: 23 May 2007 at 19:01 GMT
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Hi Jean-Pierre,

There IS a way to publish your panorama's at Pbase. Check out: www.pbase.com/szw/image/69147056
So far, I only done this for DevalVR, so your are limited to PC.

The way I do that is as follows:
1. upload your equirect JPG files to a hidden gallery and note the 8 digit image numbers assigned by Pbase (you can see the in the address field in your browser)
2. upload thumbnail equirect JPG files (I use 200x100 pixels) to the gallery you want to publish
3. edit the image and fill the description area with the following:
<center>Klik en sleep de foto in het rond; gebruik het menu linksonder voor meer opties
<object classid="clsid:5D2CF9D0-113A-476B-986F-288B54571614"
codebase="www.devalvr.com/instalacion/plugin/devalocx.cab#v...,5,4,3">
<param name="src" value="www.pbase.com/szw/image/69245020/original.jpg">
<embed pluginspage="www.devalvr.com/instalacion/plugin/install.html"
src="www.pbase.com/szw/image/69245020/original.jpg"
type="application/x-devalvrx" />
</object>
</center>

4. replace the 8 digit image number in the code above TWICE with the number obtained in step 1 and press "update pictures"

There must be a way to use PTViewer in this way also, but you need to host the PTViewer.jar file somewhere outside Pbase. Maybe you can use the freefilehosting.org site for this.

Maybe this idea gives the wizards among us inspiration to develop something more comprehensive.

Henk.
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Forum:
Q & A

Thread:
Olympus E-500 - Advice please.
Re: Olympus E-500 - Advice please - AND NOW CANON 300D
Posted: 5 May 2007 at 8:21 GMT
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Congratulations! Hope to see some of your work soon.
Henk
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Q & A

Thread:
Olympus E-500 - Advice please.
Re: Olympus E-500 - Advice please.
Posted: 2 May 2007 at 6:54 GMT
updated: 2 May 2007 at 6:57 GMT
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Hi Mark,

Check out the reviews of the two camera's:
www.dpreview.com/reviews/olympuse500/
www.dpreview.com/reviews/canoneos300d/
Note that the 300D is from 2003 and the E-500 from 2005. The 300D has a larger size sensor (crop factor 1.6, Olympus has 2.0). The larger size sensor has the advantage of less noise, but the resulting image on the sensor is smaller: fewer pictures to take for full 360°, but lower resolution of the final image (see John's answer above). The maximum equirectangular image size I get with my E-300 (same sensor size as the E-500) and the Peleng is around 10000x5000 pixels. Add the lower resolution of the 300D (6 Megapixels) to that, and you end up with a much smaller equirectangular image (I estimate 6500x3250).

Hopes it helps.

Best regards,
Henk
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Forum:
Q & A

Thread:
Olympus E-500 - Advice please.
Re: Olympus E-500 - Advice please.
Posted: 1 May 2007 at 20:10 GMT
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Hi Mark,
I got my Peleng with 4/3rd adaptor ring from www.eastwave.ca. Although it is a Canadian company, payment is in Euro's to a German bank account and they ship their lenses from the Czech republic. I use the lens on my E-300 and I'm happy with the results (despite the fact that both the E-300 and the Peleng lens have their flaws).
Best regards, Henk
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Forum:
Q & A

Thread:
Hand held or monopod advice please
Re: Hand held or monopod advice please
Posted: 17 Apr 2007 at 18:46 GMT
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I told you so laugh laugh
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Forum:
Q & A

Thread:
Hand held or monopod advice please
Re: Hand held or monopod advice please
Posted: 13 Apr 2007 at 16:32 GMT
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Hi all, hi Mark,

Sorry, but this is not the silver bullet that solves all your parallax problems. You still have to be prepared for some serious photoshopping to get rid of them. All depends on your steady hand ofcourse.

The following shots hopefully illustrate the technique I use. I swung left, right, down and up only 45° instead of 60°, to keep myself in all pictures. It's the philipod idea, but without the wire.



Other samples of my work can be found on the WWP and on www.pbase.com/szw/200610_sr_panos

Best regards,
Henk
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Forum:
Q & A

Thread:
Hand held or monopod advice please
Re: Hand held or monopod advice please
Posted: 12 Apr 2007 at 20:47 GMT
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Hi John,

I usually do all my pano's handheld. I have an Olympus E-300 with the Peleng 8 mm lens. I need to do 6 around + zenith and nadir. I use the following technique:
- find a spot on the ground some 10 cm in front of your feet
- hold the camera in portrait mode under your chin, look from above "through" the NPP at the spot on the ground and take 3 shots from left to right at -60°, 0° and 60°
- turn the camera to portrait mode and make a shot tilted appr. 60° up and another shot 60 down (keep the NPP as much as possible at the same spot and move your head back for the up shot)
- turn yourself 180° around the spot on the ground and repeat the steps above
The whole procedure can be done in appr. 15 to 20 seconds.

I use Hugin and this nice piece of software accepts a mix of portrait and landscape photo's. It can also deal pretty well with photo's not fully vertical or horizontal (i.e. rotated). The most important thing is to keep the NPP at the same place in space.
With two nadir shots and two zenith shots I hardly ever need to patch the zenith and nadir. Sometimes I have to remove the noses of my shoes or my forehead from the sky, but that's all. Have a look at home.wanadoo.nl/hwkeijzer

Best regards,
Henk
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