etegration's forum messages

aMac said:

Well, as the title says, really.

I already own the Sigma 8mm 3.5 lens, and my two camera bodies are the Canon 5D and 30D. I've decided to try and use the lens for panoramas and of course, that means I'll need a head!

I'm leaning towards the Nodal Ninja products for their portability, and obviously the NN3 MkII is the most portable of the pair.

My question is, what is the general consensus here as to which head would be more suitable? Is the NN3 strong enough and big enough for both the 30D and the 5D? Will I need the NN5 if I want to use the head for both?

Any input would be appreciated!

Doug Aurand said:

Tri3
I've heard good things about the Sigma 10-22mm.

It will likely do as good a job as the Canon 10-22mm since they're both aspherical lenses

Take care
Doug Aurand
www.VirtualAlbuquerque.com

Tri3 said:

Yea it is way expensive and the shipping is killer to the US.
US 49,99 Euro, Ouch.

Thanks for the info though.

iltriumph said:

Guys!

I've solved the problem already! It's all about not being in 2:1.

Thank u all for spending time to write a reply. Appreciate it.

Peter Patricelli said:

Aris,
Peleng's typically come with a 3 filter set. One of those is a clear filter that is actually required as part of the lens focusing system. I don't know whether there is much call for color filters in this digital age, certainly not something I have ever needed to use, but be sure you are getting the lens with the "necessary" clear filter in place on the back of the lens. If not, then you need to buy the set to get the clear one.

Peter Patricelli
www.flyfishingfotography.com

Doug Aurand said:

Even with 12 megapixels, he sensor on a P5100 is just so much smaller at about 7.6 x 5.7mm than the 12 megapixel APS-C sensor in a Canon 450D at 22.2 x 14.8, that it just can't deliver the image quality, primarily sharpness.

The photo sites are just so close together

Doug Aurand
www.VirtualAlbuquerque.com

ebig said:

My results improved with a P5000+E8 when I went from 3 shots to 4 horizontal shots + nadir. A zenith shot would show more improvement.

Not as good as an APS-C sensor, but adequate for many uses and more portable.

Regards,
Ed

ebig said:

Is this the process you use?

First you set the f/stop ring to the desired stop. That ring just sets a limit to the aperture travel.

Then you turn the UNLOCK/LOCK ring fully to the LOCK position (clockwise from the rear of the camera.) That is the aperture actuating ring that closes down the
aperture (and opens it in the UNLOCK direction.)

Theough the viewfinder you should be able to see the image darken as you turn the ring to lock.

It is a totally manual lens.

Good luck.

Regards,
Ed

Marius said:

Thanks for the info!

Ok, let me rephrase.

I need:

A system whereby I have to take the least number of photos with the simplest panohead out there with the 1.6 cropped sensor of my Canon 20D.

Less photos means less time spent post processing bracketed images and more flexibility to include more action in the shots I think. Also the simplet the panohead setup the better.

What system would I use and what equipment do I need to purchase (keeping budget in mind)?

For post I am thinking Tufuse, Ptgui, Photoshop and 3DVista View3.

I know I am asking a lot here, I really appreciate the help.

(edited to add that the quality is definately a concern.)

BerndD said:

Hi Tim,

it’s a lot easier for me to make only four Pictures, cause I can locate these better manually.
They are all 90° ( always a right angle) and if I have to act fast it’s easier to handle than 5 pictures (72°) or 6 pictures (all 60°).
To make this photo I renounced of the Nadir and Zenithphotos cause I had to handly quickly.
I turned the camera up (ca 5°). Due to this there are only little Information missing.
In principle I could use my nodalpointadapter to shoot a exact zenithpicture , but in that situation I think it was not possible
... for infomation, here's my bracket:
www.360bilder.de/nodalpunkt.html

All the best Bernd