Nick Fan's forum messages

Matthew Rogers said:

I'm sorry to say it but this technique of aligning the images in the nadir shot is stupid at best. Depending on the sensor offset of the camera you're using and the distortion of the lens you could go in circles forever and not arrive at the perfect circle. Whether or not the images align to create a perfect circle is almost the most nonsensical technique I've come across in over 15 years of shooting panoramic images.

Edwin Karganilla said:

I inquired from your Philippines reseller on the availability of the EZ-Leveler II. They don't have stock. Also it says the same on your website. When would stocks be available?

davesabog said:

Thanks Doug.

Yeah I've read somewhere that Fanotec is based in Hong Kong, though at nodalninja.com they didn't mention any "Hong Kong" and they don't even have an official reseller there. Hmmm....

Our reseller here in the Philippines only has the NN3 with RD16. I think getting that package is not practical for me right now.

Asking for advice, would the RD16 really benefit me? I shoot equirectangular panoramas with a nikkor 10.5mm fisheye.

Thanks!

Newto3D said:

OK, but if I just screw in the NN3 to the tripod it doesnt lie right in the center of the tripod, this is because the screw on the tripod is big and I have to screw it into the hole on the NN3 thats fits, therefore it lies to one side....is this normal, ok?

Jann Lipka said:

Good idea - I think I'll have to stick with 2 dots on lens / focusing ring .
Thanks

Tim Eastman said:

Another question concerns whether PTGui does a better job than Panorama Tools at blending the zenith in a +5 deg setup. I seem to remember something about blend priority affecting the star pattern. I love the prospect of being able to set up for a pano so quickly.

Tim Eastman said:

I determined the NPP for my NN R10 + 5 deg. / Sigma 8mm / D300 combo using the usual method, i.e. John's method, which has alaways served me well. If it is accurate the base of the R10 should be square, at least I think so. Everything stitches very nicely but the R10 base comes out as a Isosceles trapeziod.

Jann Lipka said:

Any smart tip for locking the focus ring ?

Just a tiny bit of it sticks out in front of the lens clamp
( Shaved Tokina 10-17 on R1 with lens clamp )

I don't have enough room for a proper tape bit ( I have used woven duct tape and similar ) ,

I have been trying Sticky Stuff adhesive mass as well , but none of this works good enough .

As there is so little of focus ring available -it is also
quite difficult to apply tape without slightly moving the ring.

Any other solutions that could work ?

Bradford Bohonus said:

15 is not (evenly) divisible by two Nick. I often bracket my shots (7). 5 extra shots would lead to 35 more shots which I would rather not have to do. I would also rather not have to switch pins on the rotator between rows. Shooting every other click to get 7 from a 14 stop disc is much more conducive to my workflow.

I am using a 20mm lens, which on the GF1 is equiv to 40mm FF.

Bradford Bohonus said:

Smooth said:

14 = 25 degrees I should think 1 extra shot 15 = 24 degrees wouldn't be much extra hassle.

I require three rows of 14 and two rows of 7 for the lens I am using.