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Q & A
Thread:
Back on track...
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Re: Back on track...
Posted: 16 May 2012 at 22:23 GMT
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John Houghton said: DorinDXN said: DemonDuck said: ..
but someday PTGui will output cube faces and then that will be moot.
PTgui does that from years ago, you only need a project file with the same equirectangular as source image 6 times, i.e. the same source image 6 times in the same project but rotated with yaw, pitch and roll according with those 6 faces.
PTGui can more easily produce cube faces via Tools->Convert to QTVR/cubic
John
Well, now I do feel even more oaf like. All these years -- never knew it was there. Works great, saves using Pano2QTVR.
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Forum:
Q & A
Thread:
Back on track...
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Re: Back on track...
Posted: 16 May 2012 at 18:54 GMT
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DorinDXN said: DemonDuck said: ..
but someday PTGui will output cube faces and then that will be moot.
PTgui does that from years ago, you only need a project file with the same equirectangular as source image 6 times, i.e. the same source image 6 times in the same project but rotated with yaw, pitch and roll according with those 6 faces.
Obviously the output then must be set as rectiliniar with FOV 90° and select layers (only) as the cube faces will be the layers.
cheers,
Dorin
I'll try that. Sound kind of fussy complicated.
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Forum:
Q & A
Thread:
Back on track...
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Re: Back on track...
Posted: 16 May 2012 at 17:15 GMT
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Every once in a while, I'm tempted to get a different pano publishing system -- then FFC gets a little better and I stick with it. Still works for me. I'm a believer in the old truth -- "Keep the faith".
The only glitch is not being able to use equirectangular images straight into FPP+FFC but someday PTGui will output cube faces and then that will be moot.
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Forum:
Tips & Tricks
Thread:
samyang 7,5 m.m. specifications
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Re: samyang 7,5 m.m. specifications
Posted: 15 May 2012 at 17:28 GMT
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So how have your adapted Samyang 7.5mm fisheyes been working? Do any of you use them as your main lens?
Have there been any improvements to the adaption procedure?
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Forum:
Q & A
Thread:
5D MkII - Image corruptions
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Re: 5D MkII - Image corruptions
Posted: 14 May 2012 at 12:18 GMT
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Marco W said: Yep, always format the card in the camera after every transfer.
Also read to only transfer the images from card to computer and don't leave the card connected to computer or edit on the card to extend it's life.
tinyurl.com/dm66lj
In the blog on that page, there is some disagreement in the length of time it takes to wear out a card and how to treat it to prolong its life. The cautions expressed here may be held over from bad experiences with early cards.
I don't know. I suppose it doesn't hurt to be cautious.
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Forum:
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Thread:
5D MkII - Image corruptions
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Re: 5D MkII - Image corruptions
Posted: 14 May 2012 at 11:52 GMT
updated: 14 May 2012 at 12:03 GMT
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If the card is new; has been formatted more than once and produced this error -- likely it is a bad card. Try to return it or just trash it and take the loss. On the one hand, you may never have a problem again -- on the other hand, the specter of a repeat of the problem at a critical time will haunt you every time you shoot.
But lovely sky; horizon straight and level; nice shadows and nice brown masonry of the chapel.
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Forum:
Tips & Tricks
Thread:
Rail challenge...
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Re: Rail challenge...
Posted: 14 May 2012 at 0:27 GMT
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My blood is particularly tasty to mosquitoes. They keep my location updated on their website.
I've never had to bring in a nadir patch three times but that sounds like a good trick to keep in mind. I like my panos done when they come out of PTGui also.
I'd say that you are definitely black belt caliber. I was wondering about how clean those vertical posts are in the Hawaii rail. I see no artifacts at all in the stitching.
And that's a particularly nice pano at the falls. It makes me want to step back from the monitor.
I drove partway into Yosemite a couple of days ago. Got as far as Olmsted Point before I got tired. Everything is still brown and a lot of snow on the ground. It also was starting to be crowded believe it or not. There was a line at the gate on Tioga Pass Rd.
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Forum:
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Thread:
5D MkII - Image corruptions
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Re: 5D MkII - Image corruptions
Posted: 13 May 2012 at 23:28 GMT
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I've seen that kind of image corruption in other media. Not directly on images from a camera. But my uneducated guess is that its a write error to the card which may be temperature related. Memory cards do wear out after a while. All those little transistors that get reset at each write and whatever little capacitors and resistors can change spec's over time.
Try a new card. Then if you see it again, send the camera in for repair.
Also, try re-reading those images from the card using a different card reader.
Those are the things I'd try if that happened to me.
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Forum:
Q & A
Thread:
Finding nodal point in the field
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Re: Finding nodal point in the field
Posted: 13 May 2012 at 17:08 GMT
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First thing that came to mind: don't do it in the field. Do it in your kitchen. You only have to do it once for each lens.
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Forum:
Tips & Tricks
Thread:
Rail challenge...
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Re: Rail challenge...
Posted: 13 May 2012 at 5:03 GMT
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Pretty good! Fine line tiles are not easy in the nadir.
But I was thinking right on top of the rail. I think there's a way to do that with minimal pain.
Tropical islands -- I can hear the buzz of the mosquitoes now.
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Forum:
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Thread:
Rail challenge...
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Rail challenge...
Posted: 12 May 2012 at 19:00 GMT
updated: 12 May 2012 at 19:02 GMT
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DennisS said: particularly for monopod shooting where stitching errors and additional editing are a given. After shooting monopod panos for a couple of years now, I can say the only time I get into trouble is when I try to do a pano right next to a handrail on a bridge or porch. If I must shoot a pano there, I break out my tripod. Otherwise 99% of the panos I do are on a monopod with no stitching issues whatsoever (is that even a word?) Given enough practice there is no reason a monopod pano cannot "fall" together.
I wondered how well I could do. From a monopod with the wind blowing about 20 miles an hour. All done with PTGui and masks except for one little piece of camera shadow thet I used Lightroom to clone out. The shadow was by the bird crap stain (white drops).
pancyl.com/BridgeRail.html
I don't think I could get any closer to the rail with a hand held nadir patch. Maybe with some kind of Nadir Adapter you could get really close. But the shadows -- in this case -- would be a nightmare. And if the NPP is closer than the length of the monopod away from the top of the rail, that would be really tough because the parallax for objects that close would be very obvious.
So I guess the real challenge would be do have the top of the rail right in the nadir. If one can do that hand held, then you get a black belt in monopod.
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Forum:
Q & A
Thread:
Sony NEX + Sony Fisheye Converter: Cost $125.00 USD
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Re: Sony NEX + Sony Fisheye Converter: Cost $125.00 USD
Posted: 9 May 2012 at 0:34 GMT
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Might be some grease on the lens but mostly it is the reflections off the surfaces of each group inside the lens that makes a trail of flare islands.
Cheap lens -- for $99 can't expect too much. Three images usually gives me enough alternate pixels to just mask away the flare islands.
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Forum:
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Thread:
Sony NEX + Sony Fisheye Converter: Cost $125.00 USD
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Re: Sony NEX + Sony Fisheye Converter: Cost $125.00 USD
Posted: 8 May 2012 at 22:10 GMT
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David Hogg said: Hi DD
Thanks for the info  When you patch the nadir / zenith, do you normally do it manually in Photoshop, or do you load your additional zenith shots into PTGui (or the like) and let it pick the best?
When I've previously stitched panoramas, I've used software called Cubic Converter to convert the 360° x 180° image into cube faces, then take the top and bottom cube faces into Photoshop to patch over the holes manually. Have you had much luck letting the stitching software patch the holes itself?
David
I do everything in PTGui including patching the nadir. Don't even own Photoshop. Once you figure out what to do, it's pretty easy using viewpoint correction and a few preliminary setup steps.
Dennis, I'm not exactly sure why I settled on the shooting pattern I use (-5;+70;nadir) I think it's because I have to shoot several Sun bracketing flare shots anyway for the zenith and the flare can stretch pretty far so I try to make a lot of pixels to work with. And with a smaller nadir, it's really easy to mask and patch. With a larger nadir patch, the edges get fussy to blend.
But you are right that there's a lot of different ways to shoot with any particular lens.
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Forum:
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Sony NEX + Sony Fisheye Converter: Cost $125.00 USD
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Re: Sony NEX + Sony Fisheye Converter: Cost $125.00 USD
Posted: 8 May 2012 at 18:32 GMT
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Hi David,
I mis-remembered the angles. The sample was shot at -5 degrees. So +10 degrees would cover the zenith.
In the sample, I was able to patch the zenith with one shot but I usually take three -- one at the Sun and two, one off each side of the Sun so I can mask out the flare. The fisheye has moderate flare.
If you shoot the nadir hand held, then maybe two or at worst 3 down shots would cover the nadir with a good patch.
DD
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Sony NEX + Sony Fisheye Converter: Cost $125.00 USD
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Re: Sony NEX + Sony Fisheye Converter: Cost $125.00 USD
Posted: 8 May 2012 at 11:27 GMT
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David Hogg said: I guess the only problem with using the diagonal method is the corners of the lens are probably the weakest points in terms of image quality? Would it work to use enough up-tilt to cover the zenith with the camera in normal portrait mode, and then to just take a slightly larger nadir shot to cover the hole?
Here is the build-thread for my wooden pano-heads by the way!
www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=698953
Thanks again for your help
You are a fine craftsman. Lovely work!
But the fisheye adapter doesn't quite give you enough for a single row + nadir patch. Here's an example. In the example, the camera was tilted down about 15 degrees so that the bottom of the frame was just showing the panohead -- an NN3 similar to what you make.
You can see that there is still a large hole at the nadir and zenith to fill and I have not been able to find a way to avoid both zenith and nadir patch with the fisheye.
You are right that the corners are soft but for the sky that doesn't matter too much and might even help with clouds. And the nadir patch can take care of the softness there. But I can't tell you for sure that it will work because I don't have a rig that will allow me to angle my camera.
Maybe you could build a 30 degree wedge camera mount that would fit one of your panoheads so you could try it out.
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