Forum:
Q & A
Thread:
Yogi Berra I don't know nothing first timer
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Re: Yogi Berra I don't know nothing first timer
Posted: 28 Feb 2011 at 23:12 GMT
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1. I don't know the 10.5mm but you shouldn't have any problems getting zenith and nadir without taking too many shots. One thing to keep in mind in regards to panohead selection is the mounting position because you may end up not being able to shoot the zenith if the arm is too short for moving the camera in the upward facing position. Someone with the 10.5 should tell you if you can use the NN3. I had my NN3 now for nearly 1,000 panos and I am still happy with it.
2. You can calculate the number of shots required at: www.frankvanderpol.nl/fov_pan_calc.htm . Z&N is not much trouble once you get used to it.
3. Give Hugin (hugin.sf.net) a shot. It is free and if you understand what you are doing it is not difficult to learn and there are great tutorials. You just need to understand the concept of control points and how your photos fill the canvas.
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Forum:
Q & A
Thread:
Exposure Value adjustment in Gimp or PS?
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Re: Exposure Value adjustment in Gimp or PS?
Posted: 16 Nov 2010 at 20:45 GMT
updated: 16 Nov 2010 at 20:47 GMT
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Thanks
I guess it is always wise to provide as much information as possible instead of hoping for a quick and easy response for a tricky problem.
I do convert all RAW images before loading into Hugin or PTGui. Raw converter alone with a curve adjustment could not give me the desired result in this case because enfuse does a better job.
Hans is correct, as always, 16bit TIF would help with the problem because less colour information is lost in bright/dark areas while processing. But not all of the software I use can handle 16bit.
The pano in question was shot on an overcast day with rather thin cloud cover in a scene with very dense trees and plants. I.e. the sky becomes nearly white by the time you get the true colours of the plants. Ideal would have been a bracketed set of images but this would have been too painful on a windy day with many moving people.
Obviously there are many ways to do this but I was simply slack and was looking for an easy way out by stitching only one set (23 images instead of 69 or more) then use Gimp to create a brighter/darker set for enfuse with which I could not achieve anywhere near the quality I was after.
Other very time consuming options are:
1) Convert 3 or more exposure sets from my RAW files and let Hugin do the rest which usually gives very good results.
2) Convert 3 or more exposure sets, enfuse them and make the alignment job in Hugin a bit easier and stitching faster.
3) Create 3 or more images with different exposure in Hugin and enfuse the output.
I guess the experiment to get a decent image from a quick and dirty approach failed.
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Forum:
Q & A
Thread:
Exposure Value adjustment in Gimp or PS?
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Re: Exposure Value adjustment in Gimp or PS?
Posted: 15 Nov 2010 at 11:26 GMT
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Thanks Heinz, but I want to stitch only once.
I guess I did not explain well enough. I want to stitch only once and then get 2 different exposures from Gimp/PS to enfuse. The set of images I use for stitching are RAW but I want to subsequently lighten up dark areas.
The best way is to bracket the shots but that's not always possible, hence I am looking for a workaround that is fast with reasonable results.
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Forum:
Q & A
Thread:
Exposure Value adjustment in Gimp or PS?
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Exposure Value adjustment in Gimp or PS?
Posted: 15 Nov 2010 at 10:40 GMT
updated: 15 Nov 2010 at 10:42 GMT
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I understand that Hugin uses the camera response curve for EV adjustment in the preview window.
Is it possible to reproduce EV adjustment in Gimp or PS? Has anybody experience in the steps required to do this?
Reason for my question is that I sometimes deliberately increase EV in panoramas where I could not use bracketing to reduce brightness of an overcast sky around the sun to enfuse later panoramas with different EV values. EV adjustment seems to produce much better results than any of my attempts to reproduce this in Gimp.
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Forum:
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Thread:
New Hugin User
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Re: New Hugin User
Posted: 3 Sep 2010 at 0:59 GMT
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Hi Mel
As Dorin pointed already out you need a few more images to fill the hole.
What camera do you use? With a crop factor of 1.5 you would only need 10 photos for the row at 0° tilt.
I also use a 17mm lens and shoot 10 photos at 30° upwards tilt, 10 photos at -30° downwards tilt, 1 photo straight up=90° tilt, 1 photo straight down plus 1 handheld to eliminate the tripod. This would give you full coverage for a spherical image without any holes in the sky or ground.
Do you want to create little planets only or full spherical panoramas?
For little planets you would probably be okay with 10 photos at 0° tilt and 5 photos at -45° tilt. Make sure to set control points only between neighbouring photos.
With a standard tripod you will have some problems in getting good alignment of objects that are close to the tripod.
Good luck
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Forum:
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Thread:
Do more pictures make for a sharper panorama?
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Re: Do more pictures make for a sharper panorama?
Posted: 31 Aug 2010 at 6:45 GMT
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A is not as sharp as B and C.
B and C are similar but C has better colours which is quite obvious around the front tyre area of the Toyota. And you should get those panels fixed before the rust takes hold of them 
A is probably 6 images. Did you have to increase the size of A or was this the calculated maximum size?
My preference is to stitch at maximum size. The final result can always be resampled for the internet but bandwith and speed get better every year and the big file may come in handy in coming years.
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Forum:
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Thread:
How to do 360 panorama's with moving subjects
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Re: How to do 360 panorama's with moving subjects
Posted: 11 May 2010 at 23:14 GMT
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You just need to mask moving people out from the source images before stitching (eg. PS or GIMP). As far as I recall there is a good tutorial on John Houghton's website but you will also find lots of infos in this forum if you search for the keywords masking or crowd etc.
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Forum:
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Thread:
PTGui configuration question for PTGui and Hugin users
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Re: PTGui configuration question for PTGui and Hugin users
Posted: 16 Feb 2010 at 2:02 GMT
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I tried the obvious before submitting my question.
The magnifying glass is not bad but it is quite difficult to place the mouse accurately enough when having the preview on a low zoom level. At higher zoom levels I have to scroll all the time and the resolution of the image is fairly poor, hence I was hoping that this can be improved somehow.
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PTGui configuration question for PTGui and Hugin users
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PTGui configuration question for PTGui and Hugin users
Posted: 12 Feb 2010 at 23:52 GMT
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I use mainly Hugin but during testing of the latest PTGui I noticed slight speed advantages.
There is just one thing that puts me off from more frequent use and Hugin users might understand the following question.
Is there a way to get a better resolution and better contrast in the Control Point window of PTGui?
I find that both the main image window and the magnifying glass lacks resolution and contrast which makes it quite hard to place control points compared to Hugin.
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Thread:
Time remaining .. appreciate some feeback in various browsers
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Re: Time remaining .. appreciate some feeback in various browsers
Posted: 20 Jan 2010 at 20:53 GMT
updated: 20 Jan 2010 at 20:54 GMT
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GMT+11: 1 day 19hrs 7 min, on XP with Firefox 3.5.7
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Forum:
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Thread:
Ptgui help ¡¡¡¡
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Re: Ptgui help ¡¡¡¡
Posted: 9 Sep 2009 at 1:40 GMT
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Do you try to create a multirow spherical panorama or a cylindrical panorama?
You can load all images at the start and after creating the control points the images should align automatically.
Your post does not sound as if you are familiar with stitching software. I suggest to read through John Houghton's tutorials:
www.johnhpanos.com/tuts.htm
This won't take much time and you will save a lot of time after reading these valuable tutorials.
Regardless what software you use, you need to understand the basics. In Wikipedia you can look up the differences between the most important projections: Rectilinear, Cylindrical & Equirectangular
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Thread:
Judging exposure
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Re: Judging exposure
Posted: 25 Aug 2009 at 21:51 GMT
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And it is a real pain with the low winter sun when you have long dark shadows and the sun nearly in the middle of the image......
Because I like high resolution, I figured out that my multi rows come out much better in such conditions than a single row. I set the exposure for the upper row so that the sun becomes clearly defined and not a large blob, and then I decrease the speed by 2 steps for the lower row.
The raw files are still fairly dark but the shadows are not underexposed, i.e. I can process the raw files accordingly and let Enfuse do the rest.
Must say that I am a rather impatient person with not enough time, hence I try to find ways to get away without bracketing which blows out processing time.
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Forum:
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Thread:
Enfuse v. HDR
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Re: Enfuse v. HDR
Posted: 25 Aug 2009 at 21:37 GMT
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I am quite thankful that you are sharing this experience because it confirms what I felt was the best way for me to get a pano quality I am happy with.
I just do this on the side and don't produce such great panos as you but I also found that an enfused result from 1 set of RAW files gives very good results without the hassles of masking moved objects from bracketed shots - and in 90% of cases something has moved.
I simply found HDR too painful and some of the HDR results I saw on the internet just don't look realistic. But if someone wants to spend the time to create a piece of art then I am quite happy to admire a good result.
In many cases, I find it is even enough to adjust the sensitivity of the RAW file and optimise the value curve for 1 set of slightly dark images to stitch and then create 2 lighter images for Enfuse in Gimp. This gives me the freedom of adjusting the curve instead of adjusting brightness across the whole range. However, I try to produce an image as my eyes saw it and not pieces of art.
Thanks for sharing, this post made me feel less guilty that I can't spend as much time on my panos as others can afford.
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Forum:
Q & A
Thread:
How to remove sun chromatic "stain" ??
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Re: How to remove sun chromatic "stain" ??
Posted: 25 Aug 2009 at 2:36 GMT
updated: 25 Aug 2009 at 2:40 GMT
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But what if you only find it at home and you can't take another shot.....
In Gimp you can select the flares by using "Select by Colour". You just have to play around with the threshold a bit until you get the selection that you want. Then you can try to adjust HSV and or colour of this area. It is a pain though and often faster to clone over it if you can.
And I always thought fisheyes are a pain when the sun is low but this oneshot lense is a lot worse.
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Forum:
Q & A
Thread:
Equirect to Cubic for work on nadir
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Re: Equirect to Cubic for work on nadir
Posted: 25 Aug 2009 at 2:29 GMT
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In many cases you can use Hugin:
- Load the equirectangular image in Hugin
- Rotate it up by 90 degrees to have the Nadir in the centre
- Save the file under different name
- Make the touch ups on the newly created file
- Open it again in Hugin
- Rotate it down by 90 degrees
- Save it as final image
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