Forum:
Tips & Tricks
Thread:
Announcement PanoTools Meeting 2012 The Hague - Netherlands
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Re: Announcement PanoTools Meeting 2012 The Hague - Netherlands
Posted: 3 May 2012 at 6:33 GMT
updated: 3 May 2012 at 6:45 GMT
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Hello John,
The schedule of the presentations, details about the excursions and much more will follow in time.
Even if you can't attend the meeting you can stay tuned, for this you register on the PTM website and skip ticking the "2012" box in the list of meetings in your account page.
Your name will not placed on the attendees list but you will have access to all available data.
Hope this can compensate a bit for not being able to attend the meeting.
Wim
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Forum:
Tips & Tricks
Thread:
Announcement PanoTools Meeting 2012 The Hague - Netherlands
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Announcement PanoTools Meeting 2012 The Hague - Netherlands
Posted: 2 May 2012 at 14:31 GMT
updated: 2 May 2012 at 14:35 GMT
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Hello Forum,
I like to bring the coming PanoTools Meeting 2012 The Hague (in Dutch Den Haag) on 10/11/12 september to your attention,
www.panotools-meeting.com/meetings/2012-hague-net...
You can register as attendee, propose a session and read how to make a reservation for the group hotel.
I hope to see you in Den Haag.
Wim
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Forum:
Q & A
Thread:
Tripod quick release solutions
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Re: Tripod quick release solutions
Posted: 31 Dec 2011 at 11:42 GMT
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DennisS said: Is John the only other person to use a quick release between the pano head and tripod?.....
I am always using a QM between the rotator of the panohead and a tripod, my favorites are the QTop and the Giottos MH 200 quickmounts, both are round with a small diameter.
When on top of a tripod with a small shoulder (the part where the legs are bolted to the center) I prefer to use the QTop, due to the small footprint of the QTop I often skip shooting a nadir patch.
In such panos I use a logo or mirror ball to cover the footprint of the tripod and panohead.
Without a nadir patch it is possible to batch process large series of panos without spending many hours of life time behind the computer...
Despite the small size of the QTop and the small diameter of the screws that are holding the top part and the bottom part together the QTop is pretty strong, occasionally I shoot an "out wall" pano holding the tripod horizontal with the legs extended without fear that my gear will fall down.
See this example of such a pano (Feisol Travel tripod, QTop, NodalNinja 4, Canon 5D, Tokina10-17@12mm, Zapshot wireless remote control):
short URL: tinyurl.com/8xqo6ox
Wim
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Forum:
Q & A
Thread:
5 GoPro Array - One click aerial pans
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Re: 5 GoPro Array - One click aerial pans
Posted: 3 May 2011 at 17:10 GMT
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AZ ChopperCam said: Yes, we edit a sky into the panorama separately.
Thanks for sharing your design and the pretty good results.
I can imagine that when shooting many hundreds of panos editing of the sky to patch the hole in zenith is not the best option.
Q) Are you planning to add another camera on top of the drone to make it possible to shoot a full spherical pano ?
Success,
Wim
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Forum:
Panoguide Announce
Thread:
Commercial Announcements Returning
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Re: Commercial Announcements Returning
Posted: 1 Mar 2011 at 21:43 GMT
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Hello Charles,
Good to read your positive decision to bring back the Commercial Announcement section.
Best,
Wim
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Forum:
Q & A
Thread:
1 lens/head for these 3 cameras?
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Re: 1 lens/head for these 3 cameras?
Posted: 20 Jan 2011 at 8:46 GMT
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badders said: ... you will probably need to set the fore/aft position of the lens ring on the mount for each camera body. If any of the cameras have the sensor at the EXACT same distance from the lens mount to another then these two cameras will have the same setting....
Hello Andrew,
I think you mixed up the NPP setting of the lens with the focus setting.
Once the lens is set in the proper NPP position on the R1 it doesn't matter anymore what kind or type of camera body is attached to it.
When there is a slight differences in the distance between the bajonet mount and the sensor between cameras then a refocus can be neccesary but for sure not a change in the fore/after setting of the lensring on the mount of the R1 as this would change the NPP setting.
BTW, I never experienced a need for a refocus of the lens on my Canon 350D, 450D, 5D so guess the need for it is not very common.
Wim
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Forum:
Tips & Tricks
Thread:
Tutorial "How to batch stitch handheld pole panoramas"
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Tutorial "How to batch stitch handheld pole panoramas"
Posted: 23 Dec 2010 at 16:51 GMT
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Hello Forum,
If you like to shoot handheld pole panoramas and you have a steady hand then there is a good chance that you can batch stitch your panoramas.
For this I wrote a tutorial and posted it on the Nodal Ninja Forum.
Perhaps it is of some use for you.
short URL: tinyurl.com/275ldzl
Best wishes to all of you and a happy X-Mas and a very good 2011.
Wim
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Forum:
Commercial Announce
Thread:
Coming Soon: Tripod Adapter for Use with Fanotec Rotators and Poles
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Re: Coming Soon: Tripod Adapter for Use with Fanotec Rotators and Poles
Posted: 9 Dec 2010 at 13:28 GMT
updated: 9 Dec 2010 at 13:39 GMT
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Hans Nyberg said: ...Please this was a joke....
Hello Hans,
Thanks for clarifying but you should know that it is easy to misunderstand humour, especially when the wrong emoticon is used ....
I am glad your intentions are without anger.
Best,
Wim
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Forum:
Commercial Announce
Thread:
Coming Soon: Tripod Adapter for Use with Fanotec Rotators and Poles
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Re: Coming Soon: Tripod Adapter for Use with Fanotec Rotators and Poles
Posted: 9 Dec 2010 at 13:18 GMT
updated: 9 Dec 2010 at 13:36 GMT
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DorinDXN said: .....My tripod has the central collumn which can be rotated, so I placed the rotator under the column and use a aluminium flash bracket to "secure " the rotator to a tripod leg, and such is weight ballanced....
Hello Dorin,
Your posting is a nice example of parallel ideas, here are some pictures of my setup I made some time ago....
BTW, this design is hard to make for general use, there are to many variables in the design of a tripod and it is a real luck if the diameter of the center column and pole are the same.
Best,
Wim
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Forum:
Commercial Announce
Thread:
Coming Soon: Tripod Adapter for Use with Fanotec Rotators and Poles
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Re: Coming Soon: Tripod Adapter for Use with Fanotec Rotators and Poles
Posted: 9 Dec 2010 at 12:54 GMT
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Hans Nyberg said: ...You have been doing "industrial spionage" ...
I think this is a bold and not very thoughtful statement for a couple of reasons:
1) Unless you can prove that "industrial spionage" has been done you better should use different words,
2) Although there are similarities your concept is clearly different from the Fanotec design (bearing, rotator, etc.),
3) Ideas are seldom unique among persons, whatever you have thought or may have invented be sure that at least one other person on the globe has the same ideas. As an example, remember the method of shooting panos with a slanted camera, this method is parallel invented by Michel Thoby and Luca Vascon (and perhaps also by you) so this kind of things happen...
Hans you better give it another thought...
Wim
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Forum:
Q & A
Thread:
I have never quite understood this
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Re: I have never quite understood this
Posted: 19 Jul 2010 at 17:34 GMT
updated: 19 Jul 2010 at 17:55 GMT
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Hans,
Setting the compression quality to a much lower value then 75 (my default) or 80 (your default) for a featureless sky will always introduce some kind of banding but sometimes you have to choose for a lesser quality to get a smaller file size when the the tile size is set to a bare minimum for full screen display.
Thanks for the warning, I don't have CS5 ( I still run CS3) but if it introduces some kind of noise, or when images are oversharped (another reason for larger files), then indeed the image size will grow rapidly...
About sharpening before or after stitching, most times I split the sharpening in a pre and a post stitching part, 70%-80% in the pre part and 20-30% for "fine tuning" in the post part.
I know that this is a personal preference, others like you do it reversed.
The main reason I do more pre sharpening is because I then get a better spread of the CP's set by PTGui.
Wim
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Forum:
Q & A
Thread:
I have never quite understood this
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Re: I have never quite understood this
Posted: 19 Jul 2010 at 16:43 GMT
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Hello Jon,
Perhaps this can help you a bit to reduce the file size of your pano.
1) Set the tile size to less then 2200 px, it is up to you how much smaller but you will get a fine fullscreen pano with 1800-2000 px tiles.
When you reduce the tile size then don't forget to limit the minimum zoom setting in the Viewing Parameters tab, f.i to 40-50 degree otherwise zooming in will give a blurred view.
2) Set a different compression quality to each of the tiles with the option "Tile Quality..."
Don't set the quality lower then 65 for the "up" tile otherwise you get some kind of banding in the blue sky caused by compression artifacts.
Experiment a bit but most times the compression quality for the "down" tile can be a lot less then the other ones. Try for example 65 for up, 60 for the 4 sides and 50 for down and examine the output, reduce the quality in small steps until you are happy with the file size and can live with the quality.
BTW, I think that it is perfectly OK to output a 3-3,5 MB pano, it all depends from the internet speed of your visitors, for those with a dial-in telephone connection even 1.5 MB is to much ...
Success,
Wim (dmmdh)
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Forum:
Q & A
Thread:
how do I set 0.5m focus at Tokina 10-17?
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Re: how do I set 0.5m focus at Tokina 10-17?
Posted: 10 Jul 2010 at 19:46 GMT
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John Houghton said: I don't know how relevant this is, but the distance scale on the lens relates to subject distances as measured from the focal plane marker on the camera body
I use the mark on the camera, the place where the sensor is mounted, when using the wall focussing method.
In practice when measuring from the front of the lens or from the NPP position of the lens the difference of approx.10 cm is almost negligible.
Wim
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Forum:
Q & A
Thread:
how do I set 0.5m focus at Tokina 10-17?
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Re: how do I set 0.5m focus at Tokina 10-17?
Posted: 10 Jul 2010 at 15:18 GMT
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iam360Texas said: ...I set our tripod mounted 500d and sigma 8 infront of a brick wall [textured surface] and used the 500d's LIVE VIEW to sharply focus and shot 3 images at F5.6, 8, 11.....
Hello Dave,
Thanks for sharing your method of focussing the Sigma 8mm.
Am I right that you set the camera at a distance of 2 feet / 24" (about 61 cm) in front of a brickwall, can you confirm this ?
The Tokina 10-17 needs a larger distance between camera and wall because the focal distance is also larger (8mm versus 10-17mm).
Unfortunately the distance scale of the Tokina is totaly useless so the method of using a wall for finding the proper distance setting is a must, the same is valid for the Nikon 10.5, another fisheye lens with a poor distance scale....
Wim
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Forum:
Q & A
Thread:
how do I set 0.5m focus at Tokina 10-17?
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Re: how do I set 0.5m focus at Tokina 10-17?
Posted: 10 Jul 2010 at 8:22 GMT
updated: 10 Jul 2010 at 8:37 GMT
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Hans Nyberg said: ...I suggest you focus at 2m. That should give you DOF from 1m to infinity at full aperture and from 0.65 to infinity at F8....
There are more roads then one going to Rome 
With a camera with a cropped size sensor the 2m method could work well but with a full frame sensor I prefer to use a different distance and a minimum aperture setting for each zoom setting.
www.panoguide.com/forums/tipsntricks/4940/
BTW, all DSLR's have multiple AF points, for wide angle lenses it is best to only use the center point for focusing and switch off the other points.
I think that when shooting in very narrow spaces (I assume the topic starter did asked for a focus setting of 0.5m for a reason) then it is best to set the distance for the AF method to a closer distance then the advised 2 or 1.15m. I would start with 0.7m for a full size sensor and 0.9m for a cropped size sensor then do some tests and adjust the distance to the wall if the result is not satisfying.
Success,
Wim (dmmdh)
edit: I find this online table very usefull to get an idea about the DOF,
www.dofmaster.com/doftable.html
Keep in mind that the table is not designed for fisheye lenses but it is still useful for objects in the center of the image.
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