Colin Len
Posts: 2
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Registered: 20 Dec 2011
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Noob Question about Correct Gear to Use
Posted: 20 Dec 2011 at 20:37 GMT
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I'm new to panoramic photography, but not new to photography. I'm getting into panos because it's a feature my work is going to be offering to some of our clients. Basically we'll be taking full 180x360 (I think this is what they're called, where you have an entire field of view as if you were standing in a single spot and can look around in all directions).
My boss and I had a meeting w/ someone who showed us his gear. He's using a Nikon D90 w/ 10.5mm fisheye and Manfrotto 303SPH Spherical Panorama Head kit. I plan on using the same Manfrotto kit but I'm a Canon user so will be shooting with a 60D. So, it's lens choice I'm having problems with. I'm thinking that either the 8mm f/3.5 or 10mm f/2.8 Sigma lens will work just fine for what I need. I'm just not sure if I can expect the same results as the guy using the 10.5 Nikkor (I need to get the same result in regard to quality, distortion, coverage...etc)
I was just a little confused by the circular and rectangular fisheyes and if any of that matters. The 10.5mm Nikon doesn't seem to produce pics with vignetting, whereas the 8 and 10 Sigmas do. Is that a problem? Will my stitching software (PTGui). The goal is to take 6 photos (one every 60deg) around with the camera pointed slightly up, then another 6 (one every 60deg) around with the camera pointed slightly down.
Any help is appreciated. Thanks!
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Doug Aurand
Posts: 3282
Location: Albuquerque, NM, United States
Registered: 2 Jan 2008
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Re: Noob Question about Correct Gear to Use
Posted: 20 Dec 2011 at 22:33 GMT
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Colin
For you Canon 60D the Sigma 8mm would be the rough equivalent to the Nikkor 10.5mm on a Nikon, but if you have a little deeper pockets you could consider the Canon 8-15mm Zoom Fisheye. Its going for $1429 on Adorama.com
With the Sigma 8mm (and likely the Canon 8-15mm) you won't need to shoot two rows with one tilted up and the other tilted down.
With the Sigma 8mm on a cropped sensor 4H+Z+N is the common capture process
And you'll probably like a Panoramic Tripod Head from NodalNinja.com better than the 303SPH
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hindenhaag
Posts: 729
Location: Netherlands
Registered: 7 Mar 2010
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Colin Len
Posts: 2
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Registered: 20 Dec 2011
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Re: Noob Question about Correct Gear to Use
Posted: 21 Dec 2011 at 23:10 GMT
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Doug, thank you for the response. I'm not necessarily looking to cut down on the number of spots. Basically I'm trying to copy the process that this other person is using. It's basically the "industry standard" in this situation. I would assume that he too is taking more photos than is actually needed but that there's a reason for that. I know that there are some stringent requirements for the finished product, so maybe the extra overlap is beneficial there?
A little too late on the NodalNinja. I heard that name tossed around yesterday but didn't look into it. And we found the 303SPH on Ebay for a good deal and made the purchase already.
I keep hearing about Zeniths and Nodals but am not sure what those are. The guy that showed us his process didn't do anything other than the 12 normal shots.
Heinz, thanks for the recommendation. I was also looking at that lens. I was familiar w/ it from when I was shopping for a wide angle lens for personal use. It's already on my list of options, just not sure if it's worth it to go for the Sigma since it's more automatic and I assume image quality is a bit better.
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Hans Nyberg
Posts: 2791
Location: Denmark
Registered: 28 Aug 2005
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Re: Noob Question about Correct Gear to Use
Posted: 21 Dec 2011 at 23:23 GMT
updated: 21 Dec 2011 at 23:24 GMT
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For a similar way to shoot you need the Tokina 10-17mm
It will give you exactly the same as with the Nikkor 10.5mm on a Nikon.
Shooting 6 around with a fullframe fisheye at a tilt down of -10 and 1 zenith shot at +60 or +90 degree is the easiest way to get good quality.
If you want to buy the best (and most expensive) you can also use the Canon 8-15mm and shoot at 10mm.
Hans
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Doug Aurand
Posts: 3282
Location: Albuquerque, NM, United States
Registered: 2 Jan 2008
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Re: Noob Question about Correct Gear to Use
Posted: 22 Dec 2011 at 0:13 GMT
updated: 22 Dec 2011 at 0:16 GMT
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Colin
The "industry standard" for shooting with a Nikkor 10.5mm on a Nikon camera with a cropped sensor is 6 shots around horizontal, a Zenith shot (straight up) and a Nadir shot (straight down)
There are variation and personal preferences like tilting up or down a little to eliminiate the need for the Nadir or Zenith.
But two rows of 6 with the Nikkor 10.5mm is overkill
Here's a list of Nikon lenses and common shoot patterns from an virtual photography authoriity
www.vrwave.com/panoramic-lens-database/nikon/
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hindenhaag
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mediavets
Posts: 1980
Location: Isleham, Cambs., United Kingdom
Registered: 8 Feb 2008
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Re: Noob Question about Correct Gear to Use
Posted: 22 Dec 2011 at 18:33 GMT
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Doug Aurand said: But two rows of 6 with the Nikkor 10.5mm is overkill
This is my preferred pattern when shooting panos in domestic scale interiors - it seems to provide the best stitch in such circumstances - for me.
Andrew
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Doug Aurand
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Location: Albuquerque, NM, United States
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Re: Noob Question about Correct Gear to Use
Posted: 22 Dec 2011 at 18:49 GMT
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Didn't say it wouln't work
But with a 15-20° tilt up and down, wouldn't the two rows be overlapping about 60%?
That seems like a lot of unnecessarily duplicated pixels on a lens as clear, sharp with as little falloff as the Nikkor 10.5mm
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mediavets
Posts: 1980
Location: Isleham, Cambs., United Kingdom
Registered: 8 Feb 2008
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Re: Noob Question about Correct Gear to Use
Posted: 23 Dec 2011 at 9:01 GMT
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Doug Aurand said: Didn't say it wouln't work
But with a 15-20° tilt up and down, wouldn't the two rows be overlapping about 60%?
That seems like a lot of unnecessarily duplicated pixels on a lens as clear, sharp with as little falloff as the Nikkor 10.5mm
I shoot the lower row at about -15 and the upper row and about +50.
Andrew
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Hans Nyberg
Posts: 2791
Location: Denmark
Registered: 28 Aug 2005
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Re: Noob Question about Correct Gear to Use
Posted: 23 Dec 2011 at 12:57 GMT
updated: 23 Dec 2011 at 12:58 GMT
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mediavets said: Doug Aurand said: Didn't say it wouln't work
But with a 15-20° tilt up and down, wouldn't the two rows be overlapping about 60%?
That seems like a lot of unnecessarily duplicated pixels on a lens as clear, sharp with as little falloff as the Nikkor 10.5mm
I shoot the lower row at about -15 and the upper row and about +50.
Andrew
You should only shoot 3 at the upper row for this.
I do it when I have for example windows with mosaics very high up in a church, but of course it depends on the lens and the aperture how much you actually win with it. At F11 my Canon 15mm is just as sharp at the corners as it is in center.
You should expect that the resolution of the corners from a fullframe fisheye is around 10% lower than the center. So if you want max resolution
this way is also an advantage.
Hans
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