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Thread: Please help with calibration

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esub

Posts: 71
Location: United Kingdom
Registered: 5 Jul 2011
Please help with calibration
Posted: 13 Nov 2011 at 1:43 GMT
Hi

I have a Samyang 8mm, Canon 600D and a Nodal Ninja 3 Mk II.

I found my no-parallax position on the upper rail, then used Smooth's technique here ( www.easypano.com/forum/display_topic_threads.asp?... ) to exactly calibrate the lower rail by moving it until there were no more 'sawtooths.'

My questions are:

- Is it normal that I'm not seeing the whole text on the nadir (you can see a few letters are missing)

- Any idea why my sitch wasn't successful (see the line of bad stitching throughout the picture).

You can see the stitch here:
dl.dropbox.com/u/734027/pano/pano4%20%281%20of%20...

And I uploaded the PTGUI project file here:
dl.dropbox.com/u/734027/pano/calib4.zip

I appreciate any help.
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DennisS

Posts: 1292
Location: Los Anglels, United States
Registered: 1 Sep 2007
Re: Please help with calibration
Posted: 13 Nov 2011 at 3:05 GMT
updated: 13 Nov 2011 at 3:26 GMT
esub,

In rooms with large walls that are the same color as the ceiling, it can be very difficult to get a good stitch since there are very few features to assign control points to. You should try placing post-it notes all over the walls where the seam will be. This will give you features you can assign control points to. You can easily remove them later in post production.

Take a good look at how the control points are distributed. They are all bunched up at the center. Images 2 and 3 do not have any control points at all.

Manually set control points along all the seams in each image pair and optimize. You should get much better results.

You also do not have enough overlap in your images. Try taking 6 around instead of just 4. Adding two more images might move your NPP, so recalibrate your rig following Smooth's tutorial.

Not seeing all of the lettering on the pano head is no big deal. Don't worry about it. That part of the pano will not be seen in the final version.

www.dlsphoto.net/Panoguide/test/Panorama.html

You are still not at the Nodal point. The rotator is not circular. You need to move back some more. Add 2 more shots to your sequence and start moving the camera back.

You also might want to level your rig. It might be tilted just a bit. For a full 360x180, it does not matter. For a single row like this, it can matter.

You are off to a very good start. Keep at it and you will "get it" shortly.

Dennis
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hindenhaag

Posts: 729
Location: Netherlands
Registered: 7 Mar 2010
Re: Please help with calibration
Posted: 13 Nov 2011 at 9:34 GMT
updated: 13 Nov 2011 at 9:40 GMT
esub,

Dennis is right, you should better go for 6 around instead of four to get more overlap.

If you check the doors in pics 0/1, 2/3 you have only few possibilities to spread the CP in vertical and specially also in horizontal.

Once you have loaded the pics and used the align tab, you can use Control Points in top tab, del worst control points. then go to Optimizer, >advanced and click to Heavy+Lensshift. Always use this for fisheye or wide angel lenses. Now optimize, once again try del worst control points, optimize. Using control points table tab - green - you can see the ones with biggest distance. Double click will show you the pics. Either correct them in position or, sitting in a useless position, del. You will see how max distance will reduce.

To get an overview on how PTGui places CP, use control points left of optimizer and check the placement of cp. Use red arrows on top to step through all the pics. As Dennis explained, you miss a good spread in the vertical as well as horizontal. No ones in the upper part of the white door for example. Sitting in this mask you can also use "del worst control points."

Checking and trying to learn use the green cp tab, go to max distance, double click, and you see the CP blinking. If this is in the middle of nowhere like on the carpet , just delete it. Try to replace or place new CP to real obvious places like the corners of the inserts on the white door.

I took a quick run through your pano and made "pre template" by adding CP with better spread in vertical and horizontal.

After loading images you can go to> File on top, >apply template to use it.

Once you got a good stitch of your project with max distance below 2, you can use safe as template to get better results for future projects.

Sometimes you can do with greater max distance if you got a good pano you like.

homepage.mac.com/hindenhaag/filechute/Esub%20Test...

Regards,
Heinz
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Smooth

Posts: 3774
Location: Mount Panorama, Australia
Registered: 21 Jul 2004
Re: Please help with calibration
Posted: 13 Nov 2011 at 9:48 GMT
I have downloaded and stitched your files correctly.
Using smartblend as the blender will show up inaccuracies better.

Here is your nadir footprint from my stitch.

It appears to be correct left to right. You have followed my tutorial well.

Here you can download my .pts file.
Simply drop it into the folder where your images reside and open and publish with PTGui. www.omnipix.net/temp/smooth.zip

I would personally suggest you use "The Grid" method tinyurl.com/use-grid to find the "true" NPP on the stitching seams. Using a good grid and setting the right props will show you within 0.5mm (Remember to keep lighting conditions the same) It is important to compare 60 and 90 degree YAW. What you will find is that there will be a small difference between the two. You can either adjust depending on your chosen click stops or take the average and use one for both. Really it doesn't matter all that much.

Regards, Smooth cool
www.omnipix.com.au
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DennisS

Posts: 1292
Location: Los Anglels, United States
Registered: 1 Sep 2007
Re: Please help with calibration
Posted: 13 Nov 2011 at 14:27 GMT
Smooth,

I bow to your superiority. After looking at your project file, I see where I made a few bone head mistakes. After following your lead, I now see that esub just may be at the correct no parallax position.

Dennis
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esub

Posts: 71
Location: United Kingdom
Registered: 5 Jul 2011
Re: Please help with calibration
Posted: 13 Nov 2011 at 15:46 GMT
Thank you all for your help, it is much appreciated.

I will dismantle my kitchen in the hunt for a grid and follow Smooth's link, and before that put some post-it-notes around and retry the previous shot, and again with 6 shots.

My Peleng sure was easier, just six shots around and no zenith, but this Samyang is way way sharper.
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Smooth

Posts: 3774
Location: Mount Panorama, Australia
Registered: 21 Jul 2004
Re: Please help with calibration
Posted: 13 Nov 2011 at 16:34 GMT
Just an extra thought.

Finding a grid that is of a decent size can help greatly. If you have one of those fold up metal beds the spring frame can be useful. Other things that come to mind are wire framed bed supports. Wire mesh fencing or from the hardware store bird Avery/rabbit hutch mesh etc.

Be sure to position the grid something like 1/3 to half way between the camera and distant objects. The mesh will need to be big enough so that the seams are covered both left and right and it is vital that this mesh is static and doesn't more (at all) between shots.

Shoot centre, left, right images and then bring them into Photoshop make the canvas so you can place the three images in a row left/centre/right and compare the objects positioned at the seams. There should be no discernible difference of the same object in the same grid "hole" between centre/left and centre/right pairs.

Do this at the start at 5mm difference on the upper rail and then zone in on what is correct in 2mm then 1mm and finally 0.5mm increments.

Good luck.

Regards, Smooth cool
www.omnipix.com.au
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esub

Posts: 71
Location: United Kingdom
Registered: 5 Jul 2011
Re: Please help with calibration
Posted: 13 Nov 2011 at 17:02 GMT
Hey Smooth,

By decent size, do you mean the whole grid, or the size of the individual squares?

Cheers
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Smooth

Posts: 3774
Location: Mount Panorama, Australia
Registered: 21 Jul 2004
Re: Please help with calibration
Posted: 13 Nov 2011 at 17:13 GMT

esub said:

Hey Smooth,

By decent size, do you mean the whole grid, or the size of the individual squares?

Cheers
Size of the whole grid. Obviously the smaller the individual squares the more potentially finely tuned you can get.

Regards, Smooth cool
www.omnipix.com.au
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esub

Posts: 71
Location: United Kingdom
Registered: 5 Jul 2011
Re: Please help with calibration
Posted: 13 Nov 2011 at 17:16 GMT
Thanks, pet shop tomorrow then!
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esub

Posts: 71
Location: United Kingdom
Registered: 5 Jul 2011
Re: Please help with calibration
Posted: 13 Nov 2011 at 17:43 GMT
For sake of completeness, adding some coloured markers (coloured post-it-notes) seemed to make a great stitch. Of course I will still follow Smooth's chickenwire link as I'm a perfectionist.

4 shots around, -15 degrees:
dl.dropbox.com/u/734027/calib5/4%20around%20stick...

And as suggested, 6 shots around, -15 degrees:
dl.dropbox.com/u/734027/calib5/6%20around%20stick...
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DennisS

Posts: 1292
Location: Los Anglels, United States
Registered: 1 Sep 2007
Re: Please help with calibration
Posted: 13 Nov 2011 at 18:11 GMT
I can imagine the conversation:

"Honey, why are you putting post it notes all over the walls?"

"So I can take pictures of the room."

Once you are satisfied with your calibration, you could shoot 6 around at 0 degrees + Zenith + Nadir + hand held Nadir patch shot. That will give you the full sphere. Although 4 around seems to work, you might find yourself in a situation where more overlap is needed due to sparse features for setting control points.
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esub

Posts: 71
Location: United Kingdom
Registered: 5 Jul 2011
Re: Please help with calibration
Posted: 13 Nov 2011 at 18:16 GMT
Andy from 360 Tactical VR recommended 4 shots around at -15 and two nadirs at +60. It seems to work great although I can only get +55 as my camera body gets in the way.

Good to know that I should shoot more around if there are less features.

Once I get these settings perfected, I expect a template would help with the 4 around in a 'sparse feature' environment right?
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Tactus 360

Posts: 1245
Location: Tynset, Norway
Registered: 2 Sep 2010
Re: Please help with calibration
Posted: 13 Nov 2011 at 18:30 GMT
I thought that only my coffee table looked as untidy as that, although mine has also empty gin bottles.

The stitch is fine, but, to minimise the shadow, which could be taken for a stain, keep well away from the tripod when shooting.

For good reason, Scandinavians always remove their shoes on entering a house; in some cases that includes public buildings. Good thing too: it keeps the mess away - and is a source of wonder/derision in the eyes of my anglicised pals.

And we don't have carpets... Just cold feet.

But I do recommend minimizing shadow as much as possible. And clearing the coffee table!

Jon
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John Houghton

Posts: 3487
Location: Hitchin, United Kingdom
Registered: 17 Jan 2005
Re: Please help with calibration
Posted: 13 Nov 2011 at 18:30 GMT
Try not to get obsessive about this. Your 6-around panorama is perfectly fine. What is it that you think needs improving? There is a stitching error on the 4-around panorama: see the top of the picture frame to the right of the door and also on the line along the top of the wall above that. A couple of control points on the picture frame may well cure those errors. Post-it notes on the ceiling will help too. Your 4-around images posted earlier gave a fine optimization result: average 0.50 and a maximum of 0.99 (with many extra points added to get as good a spread of points as possible). They don't come much better than that.

John
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