juann
Posts: 90
Location:
Registered: 6 May 2006
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how to light 360º pano with only one flash?
Posted: 4 Jun 2008 at 23:39 GMT
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I use a home made "barebulb" omnidirection difusser a little back and over the camera in all shoots , the nadir shoot is the problem...
A better idea?
Cheers.
juann
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michael przewrocki
Posts: 732
Location: basel, Switzerland
Registered: 19 Nov 2004
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Re: how to light 360º pano with only one flash?
Posted: 9 Jun 2008 at 5:10 GMT
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when i had to illuminate a really dark cow-stew for a 270 degr-pan i took my roundshot/panascope 65/760/220-a laserlight to check lens-position(must be a bit outside lens-view) and a hotlight 100w shooting at 45 sec/full circle. cows moved a bit but people were sitting still.
second was a church interior/now museum. at darkest position i had setup two hotlights(hidden) and did the same with moving light.of course i could not illuminate everything but illuminate important parts. i even had it on a cable(no batterylight available). depending how the light is guided you could get shadows on no-shadows. highly interesting. if done properly one could even jump through the image without being seen. the pans with the ghost/myself look very strange. that was an adventure. slitpancams have advantages and disadavantages.
would be interesting how this can be done with dslr and bulb/movingflashes.
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Doug Aurand
Posts: 763
Location: Albuquerque, NM, United States
Registered: 2 Jan 2008
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Re: how to light 360º pano with only one flash?
Posted: 9 Jun 2008 at 16:05 GMT
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The problem with using any kind of lighting that moves with the camera is the change in shadow directions and aligning them when stitching. Diffusion helps, but isn't a perfect solution
I've imagined a diffusion globe hanging under the camera, withing the legs of the tripod, but never got past that.
The only thing that I've been able to get to work for sure is flood lights that aren't moved after the first shot and are hidden from the camera. I have diffusers on the floodlights and usually bounce the light off the ceiling to further diffuse it
I'm getting a pair of Compact Studio Lights from www.SharPics.com. They have 9" reflectors, but are only 12" tall so they're really easy to hide behind furniture in the scene without laying a hot floodlight on the carpet.
Doug Aurand
Albuquerque, NM
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gus
Posts: 385
Location: United Kingdom
Registered: 19 Jun 2007
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Re: how to light 360º pano with only one flash?
Posted: 9 Jun 2008 at 19:27 GMT
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I havent got around to trying it, but my nikon D70s can fire my SB-600 flash wirelessly. Theoretically, to overcome the shadows that Doug refers to, if you hold the flash above the camera so it rotates around the same point as the lens when fired, the shadows should not differ from one scene to the next. You can use a cheap wireless trigger with just about any camera and flash combination.
Has anyone used this method with success?
gus
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Doug Aurand
Posts: 763
Location: Albuquerque, NM, United States
Registered: 2 Jan 2008
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Re: how to light 360º pano with only one flash?
Posted: 9 Jun 2008 at 20:38 GMT
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gus
You'll still have the problem as long as you aim the flash in the direction the lens is aimed for each shot.
Consider a ceiling like the one in the Living Room of this tour www.do222.com/iPIXIndex.htm with beams above the camera
Using a Sigma 8mm which would only need 4 shots around horizontal, in the first shot the light from the flash would be 90° across the beams, the second would be inline with the beams, the third would be 90° across the beams opposite the first shot and the fourth would be inline with beams, but opposite the second shot.
The directions of the different shadows won't line up in the area that overlaps in the 4 source pics.
I've tried it and gotten a passable result using a floodlamp 5-6 feet behind the camera for each shot of a 3 shot fisheye capture. From that distance I was able to fairly easily edit out the differing shadow directions so that only I knew what was happening. But it only worked because I had a lot of room to work with; and empty area 10-12 feet across
You'll have the same problem with the 2 different shadows a piece of furniture will cast in the overlap are.
If you're going to add light (flash or flood) it has to be in the same position/direction in all the source images. That's why the idea of an omni-directional globe/light hung under the tripod was an idea I've looked into just a little.
Give the remote flash a try and let us know
Doug Aurand
Albuquerque, NM
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